Holiday Dress and Coat: Working with Velvet

Last December I decided to begin a new tradition.The plan is to make a holiday outfit for each of my 18-inch dolls that include two American Girl Dolls and four Madame Alexander dolls.

The coat below (Simplicity 3547) is meant to be worn over this dress (Simplicity 3551). Sewing this red velvet was a time consuming, learning experience. It was virtually impossible to sew two layers together without one layer sliding away. Although I was careful to only steam the seams and not touch the fabric with an iron, one layer of my seams ended up rippled.

I had previously sewn with velvet, and I knew to cut each pattern piece going the same way on the nap. I sewed a beautiful dress for myself in high school, but I made the set in sleeves with a light-weight transparent fabric. Setting in these little doll sleeves was quite a chore.

Sandra Bezina gives some great advice on sewing velvet in her book Fabric Savvy. She suggests underlining the garment with prewashed silk organza or cotton batiste. Unfortunately, I forgot that I owned this reference book until I already had the garment together. Bezina also suggests using a lighter weight fabric for the collar underneath and the facings, but finding fabric to match the velvet has been a real challenge. I have decided to line the coat, but I haven't found matching liner either. Hopefully, the liner will make the garment smoother and, therefore, less bulky. I will add buttons after I add the liner.

I love the fit of this basic sleeveless dress. I matched the plaid design on the dress side seams. I tried various red ribbons and trims to decorate the dress but decided it needs a belt, which I will make once I find a miniature buckle. I will repost both of these garments after putting the finishing touches on them.