Mixing Prints with Simplicity 2458

I love mixing prints--or in this case mixing a pinstripe and a print. This Simplicity design 2458 isn't something I'd normally use. But I think it's cute:

I have not been satisfied with the fit of most patterns recently, but this one is a gem. The top has elastic inserted in the back near the waist which creates a better fit.

I learned much about ribbon while doing this little exercise. From now on I'll work exclusively with silk or rayon whenever possible. Polyester can be stiff, and it doesn't drape the way I'd like it.

I changed my photography set-up, and that was a bad idea. A few unwanted shadows in these photos, but if I wait for perfection, I'll stand still.

One of the purposes of this blog is to show my setbacks as a doll clothes maker and designer. There is more to learn than I had anticipated but this process has given me the opportunity to see what other doll clothes and patterns are available and what other doll clothes lovers are doing.

How Do I Set in a Doll Clothes Sleeve?

(Blog author's note on January 25, 2013: After working with more sleeves, I realize that--although doll clothes differ from people clothes--my sleeve problem is in the design of the pattern and not in the skill of my sewing. But I will eventually post some easy sleeve patterns to clear up the nonsense for good.)

I am befuddled when it comes to setting in sleeves for my American Girl doll. I have approached sewing with confidence and patience. I will remove stitches with a seam ripper and stitch again, if I must.

I wish I had photos of the many garments that I've made for myself. When I was in high school my mother took my aunts through my closet while bragging about my accomplishments. I merely boast to provide perspective here because. . . .

I don't seem to be able to set in a sleeve for my dolls. I have succeeded a couple of times, but these were by hit and miss. I've spent so long trying to master the sleeve that I'm close to throwing my sewing machines and Sergers out the window (the visual is somewhat satisfying).

Here is my problem: I do not want tucks in my sleeves. Gathered, full sleeves are another matter, but a jacket or casual dress or blouse should be smooth where the sleeve joins the armhole.

I just praised the book Dressing up 18" Dolly by Lorine Mason in my last blog entry. She gives practical instructions about most sewing, addressing the neatness of the inside of the garment. For instance, she uses a lot of bias tape to finish hems. She also suggests using a different color bobbin thread when making gathers in fabric (for a skirt or a sleeve). The color difference makes pulling on thread together much easier. Removing these temporary threads is easier as well.

I was hoping that Lorine Mason could clear up the mystery of mastering the set-in sleeve, but alas. I'm more confused that ever. Her sleeve patterns are too big for the bodice. I cannot connect them without unwanted tucks and gathers.

To be honest, I notice gathers in some of the photos of her completed garments (she uses the same sleeve pattern for each garment in the above-mentioned book). But other sleeves look perfect. I've almost finished her Cropped Jacket. I need to attach the finished sleeves and the bottom ruffle, and that's it. But I've made several attempts to sew the sleeves to the bodice, and I'm just not happy. I was once an expert sewer or seamstress--or sewest--but I feel like I'm treading water.

I've found some great advice at Adams-Harris.com, a beautiful clothes pattern designer (for BJD size). After addressing the challenge of setting in sleeves of doll clothes, she often prefers to attach her sleeves by hand.

I don't know whether to finish my current project with another attempt to put the sleeve in by hand or whether that method will work with this particular pattern. I wish Lorine Mason--or other doll clothes creators, for that matter--addressed the sleeve issue in their directions. If I didn't have so much other sewing experience, I'd probably quit making doll clothes all together, thinking I simply had no sewing talent or potential.

Once I find a sleeve that works for me, I may hold on to that particular shape for everything with sleeves (nothing of course the size of the arm hole). I will continue to make notations in this blog about my relationship with set-in sleeves.

Girls Just Want a Fun Hat

Note to self: Do not make this dress pattern again. In fact, toss it into the garbage. My model below looks as cute as a button. I saved her "look" by giving her a hat.

This hat is a strip of velvet knit, folded in half (right sides together) so that the fabric becomes a thinner strip with the ends cut diagonally. I stitched the fabric together on the long edge, leaving an opening in the center, large enough to turn the strip right-side out. I folded this thick velvet strip into four pleats and tacked the pleats together. I gathered a piece of netting down the middle and tacked it onto the velvet. I added a flower, and voila! I attached the hat to the doll's head with a hat pin.

When I make a new outfit, I try it on all my dolls to see which one looks the best. Any black in the fabric looks best with black hair--or blonde hair. Not brown. I have plenty of beautiful shades of browns and tans for my brown-haired dolls.

Here's a full shot of the dress, Simplicity 4654. This dress was supposed to be a holiday dress. I'd planned to add a beautiful black sash and bow, but the bodice is far too loose at the seam line under the chest.

I previously made this same pattern in an October 14, 2011, blog entry. I remember thinking that perhaps I'd stretched the fabric. But I was careful this time. The bodice might be loose to ease the fit of the set-in sleeves.

Setting in a woman's or child's sleeve is easy. You put a row of basting stitch on the stitch line and ease the sleeve fullness into the bodice without making an ugly tuck in the sleeve. With doll sleeves, it's easy to make an unwanted tuck in the under-arm area of the bodice. I notice that most of the sleeves of the eight-inch Madame Alexander costumes are very full and gathered. These full sleeves are probably easier to sew.

Any suggestion for perfecting the setting in of doll clothes sleeves would be appreciated.

Dress for the Holidays

Here's another dress with holiday colors. I started with Simplicity 7083 but made several changes.

I used my own straight skirt but added just enough gathers so the doll could pull the dress over her hips to get into it. In other words, I wanted a fitted skirt without adding darts, so I put gathers in the back of the dress.

I think I got this dress a bit too short. I've been experimenting with fit and hem length. These dolls have weird proportions to start with. The length from the waist to the middle of the knee is about 5-1/2 inches, but from the crotch to the knee is less than 3 inches. When a doll skirt is too long it doesn't look stylish unless it's a gown. But a cut above the knee may reveal the doll's undies.

As in the previous blog entry, I love combining two different prints.

Winter Fashion Line

Here's my first holiday dress of 2012. I'll eventually have Christmas dresses for all my dolls--and maybe some of yours.

I've embellished Simplicity #4364. I like the way the bodice fits, but I shortened the skirt quite a bit, and I added these polka dotted inlays. I actually made a beautiful white shrug to go over the dress, but the shade of the shrug made me realize that this white background here is not truly white. The shrug doesn't match, but look out. The shrug will be featured shortly.

Here's a full view that shows these adorable party socks and shoes.

I've finally got my mojo working, and I have so many ideas for doll clothes. I hope to have some patterns available in the next few months.

Holiday Dress and Coat: Working with Velvet

Last December I decided to begin a new tradition.The plan is to make a holiday outfit for each of my 18-inch dolls that include two American Girl Dolls and four Madame Alexander dolls.

The coat below (Simplicity 3547) is meant to be worn over this dress (Simplicity 3551). Sewing this red velvet was a time consuming, learning experience. It was virtually impossible to sew two layers together without one layer sliding away. Although I was careful to only steam the seams and not touch the fabric with an iron, one layer of my seams ended up rippled.

I had previously sewn with velvet, and I knew to cut each pattern piece going the same way on the nap. I sewed a beautiful dress for myself in high school, but I made the set in sleeves with a light-weight transparent fabric. Setting in these little doll sleeves was quite a chore.

Sandra Bezina gives some great advice on sewing velvet in her book Fabric Savvy. She suggests underlining the garment with prewashed silk organza or cotton batiste. Unfortunately, I forgot that I owned this reference book until I already had the garment together. Bezina also suggests using a lighter weight fabric for the collar underneath and the facings, but finding fabric to match the velvet has been a real challenge. I have decided to line the coat, but I haven't found matching liner either. Hopefully, the liner will make the garment smoother and, therefore, less bulky. I will add buttons after I add the liner.

I love the fit of this basic sleeveless dress. I matched the plaid design on the dress side seams. I tried various red ribbons and trims to decorate the dress but decided it needs a belt, which I will make once I find a miniature buckle. I will repost both of these garments after putting the finishing touches on them.

My Favorite Models

This blog ultimately shows the preparation for my forthcoming website that will feature digital patterns. My homework consists of sewing with patterns created by others to get my sewing feet wet. So far this has been a labor of love. I'm learning what I like, and what I don't like.

I'm having fun visiting other 18-inch doll sites and finding accessories that will enhance my doll clothes. I have also purchased some beautiful pieces of fabric for formal wear and holiday attire. But my favorite "task" is photographing my little models.

Here are my favorite models: This is Kaiah. She will be assisting me with my doll clothes and doll clothes patterns. Kaiah has named her American Girl doll "Kaiah," we call her doll "Mini-Kaiah."

Although I won't be designing clothes for little girls per se, I will occasionally demonstrate how to make matching outfits for girl and doll by featuring a manufactured pattern that is adaptable.

Here's another view of both Kaiahs:

I also plan to feature a "Girls' Corner" to teach little girls how to sew simple doll clothes, like aprons and skirts. (I don't know too many boys who want to sew or play with dolls, but boys are also welcome.)

Please note: Both Kaiahs' hair were styled by their mommy.

Sizing Should Be Simple

Here is yesterday's dress Simplicity 2269 that one of my Madame Alexander dolls wore. My American Girl Doll "Julie" measures slightly larger around the shoulders (by 5/8 inch). She fills out the waist and hips a bit better too.

I think this dress is still too roomy, but it's a better style for this doll than the M.A. Next time I use this pattern, I will fit the bodice piece to the doll ahead of time, and I will use interfacing on this section of the dress.

The doll's accessories are listed on my previous blog entry.

Doll Clothes Alterations

Below is an unfinished polka dot dress that I made with Simplicity #4654 that still needs a hem. Please note that the designated hem is only one quarter of an inch. Since I've revisited my childhood hobby of creating doll clothes, I've become dissatisfied with many of the patterns that I find. The clothes have a strange fit, or they're basically boring. This dress is too long:

I appreciate anyone's effort to create, period. But what I envision is simply different from anything I see. Once I hem the dress--and add the velcro to the opening down the back--the dress won't look much different.

I am trying to dress dolls as if they're kids, fashionable kids, at that. I don't see little girls wearing mid-calf or ankle-length dresses. Why would anyone dress American Girl or Madame Alexander in a long dress unless the doll is supposed to be a wearing period costume or a princess dress?

I'm going to hem this dress somewhere above the knee after I change the look of the dress with a pleat here and a tuck there. With a few tiny alterations and with some accessories, this dress will look vastly different, and much better. That is my aim, anyway.

Please check out my next blog entry to see the results.

My Asian Fashionista

Whenever I consider buying a new doll, I must find a place to keep her. 18-inch dolls take up space. Until recently I had one American Girl doll (Julie), and I had four Madame Alexander dolls. I need to balance out my collection with another A.G. doll, maybe one with red hair and freckles, or I'd like to buy an A.G. doll that looks like me, "Marshmallow Jane."

Lo and behold, I found another Madame Alexander doll that I couldn't resist and she is Asian. Or she looks partly Asian. Eurasian. Chinese American or Japanese American.

At least a manufacturer made an attempt to create a doll that looks somewhat Asian, and I say this because at least two people don't think she looks Asian at all. She is beautiful; there is no doubt about that.

I peek in the doll section everywhere I go. I almost hate to say this, but I only spent $20 on the above beauty that I found at Walmart. She doesn't appear anywhere on the Internet. Madame Alexander manufactures batches of dolls for specific stores--it would seem--and then they disappear. I could tell you that I spent $100 on her; the quality of her face and hair certainly compares to the expensive A.G. dolls.

Now I have one A.G. doll and five M.A. dolls. I actually prefer the construction of American Girl's body a bit more, and I will make sure that my future clothes patterns fit her to a tee. But nothing compares to the Madame Alexander face.

My sister's friend Win, who is at least in part Chinese, thinks this doll looks Asian. Of course, I'm using the word "Asian" to cover all Asian races. I hope that no one Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean or other specific race is insulted by my generalization. At least a company has made an attempt to alter the face--if only slightly--to represent a girl who isn't all white--or black.

Comments, please?

Madame Alexander vs. American Girl

I have an unabashed love for Madame Alexander because her face is so beautiful. Her lips are large, and so are her wide-set eyes. This doll is called "Favorite Friends First Day of School," and she's listed at the Madame Alexander site for $44.95. There are 13 "Favorite Friends" available at the above M.A. page. I particularly like this one:

I will frequently compare Madame Alexander to American Girl because there are differences. One notable one is that Madame Alexander's cloth body is seamed at the chest; whereas American Girl is seamed at the neck, making this seam visible with any open-necked outfit. However, Madame Alexander's chest seam creates a funny dent--noticeable to a seamstress--that gives her slightly funny posture. I actually tried to return my first 18-inch M.A. doll until I realized they're all designed in this manner.

Therefore, I consider the physique of American Girl to be superior. Yet, that funny seam at A.G.'s neck annoys me--but then so does the indented chest of M.A. Suffice it to say, a girl child won't care about either of these seams. And American Girl is twice as costly as Madame Alexander.

Both brands of dolls celebrate racial differences--as you can observe the different skin colors among the 13 dolls at the M.A. link that I provided above. American Girl gives the buyer a lovely opportunity to choose hair, eye and skin color. You can purchase a doll that resembles your child (somewhat). You can even choose to get the doll's ears pierced for an additional $15. However, the base price of the doll is $100 ($115 with pierced ears). The A.G. doll is a pricey toy, well worth the cost if your child plays with it for several years.

Some parents do not have $100 or even $45 to spend on a doll. There are cheaper brands, like Springfield dolls that can be found at Michael's. Springfield dolls are a cheap "knock-off" of the popular American Doll. You may also find it at Amazon--for about $17--but if get a 50 percent discount coupon for Michael's, you can get the Springfield doll for around $8. I won't spend significant time on Springfield dolls or any other brand that emerges as a trend or fad, unless it becomes more popular. If you or your child has a Springfield

 

doll, I'd be curious to hear about your experience and your opinion of the doll. My aim is to provide ample information to properly dress the 18-inch doll. American Girl will be the default doll when sizing patterns.

My 18-inch Dolls

American Girl manufactures the most popular 18-inch doll. In my opinion their construction is superior to that of other dolls of the same size, but they are pricey at $100 each. When purchasing an A.G. doll, you can choose hair color, hair length, shade of skin and eye color. Your little girl can play with a doll that resembles her in many important ways.

I own one American Girl doll that is known as Julie. She's the center doll below with the long blonde braid, and she represents the 1970s when flower power and love influenced both style and ideals. The fictional "Julie" lives in San Francisco. The embroidered blouse that her friend wears belongs to Julie.

I prefer the face of Madame Alexander hands down. M.A. dolls have larger eyes and fuller lips than American Girl. Although I will always create patterns and clothes to fit the measurements of the popular A.G. doll, I will make it easy to adjust clothes to fit Madame Alexander. I will talk about the differences in sizes at a later date.

Although I simply adore M.A., I have noticed that the construction in general of American Girl is superior. Her hair has more root holes, so it is thicker, and her body has better proportions.

Below are two dolls by Madame of Alexander that I simply adore. I call the doll on the left "Brandi" because she resembles my daughter-in-law with the same name who is also bi-racial. Recently, Madame Alexander has manufactured its 18-inch dolls in small batches of unique dolls. The doll on the right is quite a find. Look at her full lips and massive hair. I can't wait to sew for these dolls!

The dolls I include in this blog have traded some articles of clothing. I threw away some clothes that came in the box because they were utt-bugly. By the way, I am not a lover of the clothes that are available for these dolls, and that's what this blog is all about. I want to try something different. I can't wait to do some wild things with the doll hair as well.

Stay tuned for more info about dressing 18-inch dolls and the people who love them.

Ballerina and Fairy Dolls

The Madame Alexander 10-inch doll has the most exquisite face. Once I fell in love with her, Barbie made no sense. I remember Madame Alexander in costumes from various countries, but through the years, the 10-inch doll has appeared as Scarlett O'Hara, Jackie Kennedy and other historical figures.

I found my own dolls under the Christmas tree, one at a time, without a fancy outfit. As I recall, my doll either came in underwear or a generic dress which made her a great candidate for homemade clothes. In those days, I wasn't much of a collector, and with five children in our family, my dolls eventually lost their heads.

As an adult, I've gravitated to the same beautiful face of the 10-inch Madame Alexander Doll. She no longer is available in her skivvies so through the years I've bought them in their costumes. I have two Scarletts, and a Pollyanna but I lean toward ballerinas.

I'm actually in awe of this doll. I want to look at her, stare at her, but I must keep her tucked away to protect her from dust. One of these days I may get a display case. This doll is called "Fairy of Wind."

Here are two dancers called: "Russian Ballerina" and "Polka Dot Plié." I love the detail on these costumes. The dancer on the left is a prima ballerina who has received flowers after her performance.

Here is Madame Alexander's version of "Tinker Bell." If you look closely, you can see her wings and her wand.

Although I adore these dolls, they are far too fancy to play with, and I want to work with dolls that my granddaughter can carry with her everywhere she goes. I will dress larger dolls--larger than the 10-inch dolls of my past--so that a set-in sleeve or lapel collar is do-able. I now love the 18-inch doll manufactured by both American Girl and Madame Alexander. I will discuss the differences among dolls of this size as I begin dressing them.

I wanted to share my first love of dolls before embarking on this project to dress the larger American Girl and her Madame Alexander sisters.

This blog will change my life

I look forward to making this blog beautiful. Stay tuned for some stylish funky doll clothes patterns.