How Do I Set in a Doll Clothes Sleeve?

(Blog author's note on January 25, 2013: After working with more sleeves, I realize that--although doll clothes differ from people clothes--my sleeve problem is in the design of the pattern and not in the skill of my sewing. But I will eventually post some easy sleeve patterns to clear up the nonsense for good.)

I am befuddled when it comes to setting in sleeves for my American Girl doll. I have approached sewing with confidence and patience. I will remove stitches with a seam ripper and stitch again, if I must.

I wish I had photos of the many garments that I've made for myself. When I was in high school my mother took my aunts through my closet while bragging about my accomplishments. I merely boast to provide perspective here because. . . .

I don't seem to be able to set in a sleeve for my dolls. I have succeeded a couple of times, but these were by hit and miss. I've spent so long trying to master the sleeve that I'm close to throwing my sewing machines and Sergers out the window (the visual is somewhat satisfying).

Here is my problem: I do not want tucks in my sleeves. Gathered, full sleeves are another matter, but a jacket or casual dress or blouse should be smooth where the sleeve joins the armhole.

I just praised the book Dressing up 18" Dolly by Lorine Mason in my last blog entry. She gives practical instructions about most sewing, addressing the neatness of the inside of the garment. For instance, she uses a lot of bias tape to finish hems. She also suggests using a different color bobbin thread when making gathers in fabric (for a skirt or a sleeve). The color difference makes pulling on thread together much easier. Removing these temporary threads is easier as well.

I was hoping that Lorine Mason could clear up the mystery of mastering the set-in sleeve, but alas. I'm more confused that ever. Her sleeve patterns are too big for the bodice. I cannot connect them without unwanted tucks and gathers.

To be honest, I notice gathers in some of the photos of her completed garments (she uses the same sleeve pattern for each garment in the above-mentioned book). But other sleeves look perfect. I've almost finished her Cropped Jacket. I need to attach the finished sleeves and the bottom ruffle, and that's it. But I've made several attempts to sew the sleeves to the bodice, and I'm just not happy. I was once an expert sewer or seamstress--or sewest--but I feel like I'm treading water.

I've found some great advice at Adams-Harris.com, a beautiful clothes pattern designer (for BJD size). After addressing the challenge of setting in sleeves of doll clothes, she often prefers to attach her sleeves by hand.

I don't know whether to finish my current project with another attempt to put the sleeve in by hand or whether that method will work with this particular pattern. I wish Lorine Mason--or other doll clothes creators, for that matter--addressed the sleeve issue in their directions. If I didn't have so much other sewing experience, I'd probably quit making doll clothes all together, thinking I simply had no sewing talent or potential.

Once I find a sleeve that works for me, I may hold on to that particular shape for everything with sleeves (nothing of course the size of the arm hole). I will continue to make notations in this blog about my relationship with set-in sleeves.